Virus Shawl Written Pattern (UK terminology)

US terminology version also available


This triangular crochet shawl design was originally only available as a chart created by an unknown designer and I decided to create written instructions for my own reference as I find those easier to follow than a chart. There now quite a few video tutorials on YouTube which you can find by going to YouTube.com and searching “virus shawl tutorial”.

Extra long version using mercerised cotton
Close up view of part of virus shawl using yarn from Easyknits.co.uk
Close up detail of stitches. This virus shawl uses 4ply yarn from Easyknits.co.uk

Helpful tips/notes

  • Changing colours and/or starting a new supply of yarn – I suggest you do this along the top edge (beginning or end of a row) where joins/knots/weaving in ends won’t be so noticeable.
  • There are no chain stitches before or after any groups of 10TC stitches (including the rows where there is a ch1 between all the TC stitches).
  • Row stitch count numbers don’t include chain stitches in the stitch count and some rows weren’t worth calculating because they are mostly chain stitches.
  • The Virus Shawl pattern essentially repeats after every fourth row, although this won’t become obvious until you have worked a quite a few more rows than this.

How big to make it? How many rows?

You can make this shawl to any size that suits you. You may wish to carefully consider which row to finish on as some rows look better as a final row than others. Out of the many hundreds of pictures published by different people, the most popular finishing row seems to be one which has a chain stitch between most of the treble crochet stitches (e.g. as in row eleven – see the pattern below).

As for how many rows to do, this sounds like asking “how big to make it” but not necessarily! If you make a shawl with bulky yarn and a large hook size, it will come out much bigger than a shawl with the same number of rows using fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook. Whichever yarn and hook size you use, just keep going until the shawl is your desired size.

Supplies

Suggested length of yarn – at least 500m. One of my favourite Virus Shawls so far used 800m.

Hook size: Use at least the hook size suggested on the label of the yarn you are using. You may achieve better draping results by going up a hook size bigger than the one suggested but this is not critical.

You will also need scissors and a yarn needle.

Gauge – not important

Abbreviations

ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
tc = treble crochet

How the shawl is worked

This pattern is written in UK terminology (a version in US terminology is also available).

After creating a circle of chain stitches, you’ll create a semi-circle of TC stitches. This forms the basis of the triangle and you’ll be working back and forth across two sides of the triangle.

To Start: chain 10, slipstitch into the first chain to form a ring.

Row One (20 stitches)

Ch3 (counts as a TC), 19 TC in the ring.

Row Two (20 stitches)

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
TC in each TC.
TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Three (20 stitches)

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
* ch1 then TC into the first TC of the previous row.
Repeat from * 18 more times.
The last TC is worked into the top of the ch3 of the previous row.

Row Four

You will be creating a row of loops all the way across the work made up of chain stitches.

Turn your work, ch10, DC in the second ch1 space of the previous row,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Five (46 stitches)

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
9TC in the large chain space,
DC in the first ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in ch7 space
10TC again in the next ch7 space, (looks like 20TC in a row across two arches)
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch10 space,

Row Six (44 stitches)

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
TC in the each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each of the next 10TC stitches,
TC in each of the next 10TC stitches, (looks like 20TC in a row across two arches)
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4
DC in the next ch4 space
TC in each TC
TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Seven (40 stitches)

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
* ch1 then TC, repeat from * 8 more times.
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
** TC then ch1, repeat from ** 18 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
*** TC then ch1, repeat from *** 8 more times
TC into the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

Row Eight

This is very similar to row four with a mixture of ch4 loops and ch7 loops.

Turn your work, ch10, DC in the second ch1 space of the previous row,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Nine (72 stitches)

This row is similar to row five.

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
9TC in the large chain space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
10TC again in the next ch7 space, (looks like 20TC in a row across two arches)
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch10 space

Row Ten (68 stitches)

This row is similar to row six.

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
TC in the each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each of the next 10TC stitches,
TC in each of the next 10TC stitches, (looks like 20TC in a row across two arches)
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Eleven (60 stitches)

This row is similar to row seven.

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
* ch1 then TC, repeat from * 8 more times.
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
** TC then ch1, repeat from ** 8 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
*** TC then ch1, repeat from *** 18 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
**** TC then ch1, repeat from **** 8 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
***** TC then ch1, repeat from ***** 8 more times
TC into the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

Row Twelve

This row is similar to row eight.

Turn your work, ch10, DC in the 2nd ch1 space of the previous row,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, DC in next ch1 space,
ch7, TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Thirteen (98 stitches)

This row is similar to rows five and nine.

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
9TC in the large chain space of the row below,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
10TC again in the next ch7 space, (looks like 20TC in a row across two arches)
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch7 space,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
10TC in the ch10 space.

Row Fourteen (92 stitches)

This row is similar to rows six and ten.

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
TC in the each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
TC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
TC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each of the next 10TC stitches,
TC in each of the next 10TC stitches, (looks like 20TC in a row across two arches)
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
DC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
DC in the next ch4 space,
TC in each TC,
TC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Fifteen (80 stitches)

This row is similar to rows seven and eleven.

Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a TC),
(*a) ch1 then TC, repeat from (*a) 8 more times.
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*b) TC then ch1, repeat from (*b) 8 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*c) TC then ch1, repeat from (*c) 8 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*d) TC then ch1, repeat from (*d) 18 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*e) TC then ch1, repeat from (*e) 8 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*f) TC then ch1, repeat from (*f) 8 more times, then one more TC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*g) TC then ch1, repeat from (*g) 8 more times
TC into the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

Need your virus shawl bigger?

Now that you have the hang of the way the repeats work, keep going until you are happy with the size. The most popular row to finish on is the one that has a ch1 between the groups of ten TC stitches (e.g. the one that looks like row 15).

Want to see a video on this pattern in UK terminology? Search for Girlybunches on YouTube and search for Virus Shawl on her channel, or click here.