Hooded Scarf, Free Pattern

Click here for the detailed video tutorial which goes with this pattern. Alternatively, find 24 Carat Crochet on YouTube and search for “How To Make A Chunky Scoodie”.

I have several variations of this pattern. This is the first one I designed and seems to be the most popular. It’s created in two pieces and sewn together afterwards. There is also a similar looking version which is made in one piece with no sewing. All my patterns are available on Ravelry, but one of my YouTube viewers needed an alternative way of seeing this pattern, so I’ve decided to put it here on WordPress.

DESCRIPTION

This pattern is for an adult sized scoodie (combined scarf and hood) which has no points to the hood, it’s rounded in shape. The pattern can be adapted to make different sizes. Try adding an edge afterwards using a different colour all the way around the whole finished project for an extra interesting effect. You may also wish to try this project with a thinner yarn (using an appropriate hook size). The yarn used in pictures on this page is James C Brett Marble Chunky.

The pattern is written in US terminology.

SKILL LEVEL – intermediate

SUPPLIES

Hook size 7mm. 2 stitch markers. Safety pins or lockable stitch markers maybe useful. Yarn needle. Scissors. Suggested yarn: James C Brett Marble Chunky or equivalent, about 500g (approximately 780m in length) which makes a very long scarf,  400g of this yarn would also work well. The Actual amount of yarn may vary depending how long and wide you wish to make the scarf.  Approximately 100g of this yarn was used for the hood.

GAUGE

17 stitches in 4 inches (using fpdc and/or bpdc)
9 rows in 4 inches (using fpdc and/or bpdc)
(Measured horizontally across the crown section)

Measurements of Pictured Scoodies

Length of scarf: approximately 96 inches
Width of scarf: 5.5 inches
Diameter of crown section of hood: 8.5 inches see picture below
From centre of crown to front of hood: 10.5 inches
Measurement around the front of the hood: 12.5 inches (the hood arch from one edge of the scarf to the other edge)

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS KEY

sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
bphdc = back post half double crochet
fphdc = front post half double crochet

DIRECTIONS

The pattern uses US terminology. The project is worked in two separate parts and sewn together afterwards. The hood is worked in a spiral from round 2 with no chaining up between rounds. Rounds 5 to 8 have increase stitches for only about three quarters of the round. The different stitches for the final section of these rounds help to create a slightly flatter edge to the crown section. When attaching the two parts later, this flatter edge will give a smoother line around the seam. Save enough yarn to sew the two parts together.

HOOD

Magic circle or chain 4 and sl st into first chain.

Round 1

ch3 then dc x 11, sl st into top of ch3. Total 12 stitches.

Round 2

ch1, 2 fpdc into the ch3, 2 fpdc into every dc stitch. No more sl st from now on as the hood will be worked in a spiral. Total of 24 stitches.

Round 3

bpdc in first stitch (start the bpdc by going between the ch1 and fpdc), 2 fpdc in second stitch. * bpdc in the next stitch, 2 fpdc in the next stitch. Repeat from * 11 times. A stitch marker placed on the last stitch of each round will be helpful and can be moved up to the last stitch of each round as you progress through the pattern. Total of 36 stitches.

Round 4

* bpdc in first stitch, fpdc in second stitch, bpdc in third stitch & fpdc into the same stitch. Repeat from * 12 times. Total of 48 stitches.

Round 5 (n.b. stitches after ** are half double crochet post stitches)

* bpdc in first stitch, fpdc in second stitch, bpdc in third stitch, fpdc x 2 into fourth stitch. Repeat from * 9 times. ** bphdc in the next stitch, fphdc in the next stitch. Repeat from ** 5 times then one more bphdc and finish on a fpdc. Place a stitch marker on 45th stitch (three quarters of the round) and progress it up with each round. Total of 57 stitches.

Round 6

* bpdc in first stitch, fpdc in second stitch, bpdc in third stitch, fpdc into fourth stitch, bpdc into the fifth stitch, fpdc into the same (fifth) stitch. Repeat from * 9 times. ** bphdc in the next stitch, fphdc in the next stitch. Repeat from ** 5 times then one more bphdc and finish on a fpdc. Total of 66 stitches.

Round 7

* bpdc in first stitch, fpdc in second stitch, bpdc in third stitch, fpdc into fourth stitch, bpdc into fifth stitch, fpdc x 2 into sixth stitch. Repeat from * 9 times. ** bphdc in the next stitch, fphdc in the next stitch. Repeat from ** 5 times then one more bphdc and finish on a fpdc. Total of 75 stitches.

 Round 8

* bpdc in first stitch, fpdc in second stitch, bpdc in third stitch, fpdc into fourth stitch, bpdc into the fifth stitch, fpdc into the sixth stitch, bpdc into the seventh stitch, fpdc into the same (seventh) stitch. Repeat from * 9 times. ** bphdc in the next stitch, fphdc in the next stitch.  Repeat from ** 5 times then one more bphdc and finish on a fpdc. Total of 84 stitches.

back of scoodie 2

Round 9

Alternate bpdc and fpdc stitches until you reach stitch number 72 (a fpdc marked with a stitch marker). No increase stitches. Total of 72 stitches.

Round 10

ch2 and turn your work. Alternate fpdc and bpdc back towards the first stitch marker, finishing with a bpdc where the stitch marker is. Total of 73 stitches (including the ch2).

Round 11

ch2 and turn your work. Alternate bpdc and fpdc until you get to the ch2 at the beginning of round 10 and hdc into the top of the ch2. Total of 73 stitches (including the ch2).

Round 12

ch2 and turn your work. Alternate fpdc and bpdc until you get to the ch2 at the beginning of round 11 and hdc into the top of the ch2. Total of 73 stitches (including the ch2).

Odd Numbered Rounds 13 to 25

Repeat round 11.

Even Numbered Rounds 14 to 26

Repeat round 12.

It is a little difficult at this point to see how the hood will fit or sit on the head as it will shift upwards a little when attached to the scarf, but this should give you a fairly baggy hood.

SCARF

The scarf is worked separately from the hood and worked widthways, alternating bpdc and fpdc stitches and then sewn on afterwards. Chain enough stitches to create the desired width of your scarf. My scarves have 23 stitches across (21 bpdc/fpdc and the edge stitches make the stitch count add up to 23) and 213 rows.

Row 1

Make a chain the desired width, ensuring you have an odd number (e.g. 25), dc into the fourth ch from the hook and dc all the way across back to the beginning. Count your stitches and ensure you have an odd number.

Row2

ch2, alternate bpdc and fpdc, ending on a bpdc, hdc into the top of the ch3.

Row 3

ch2, alternate fpdc and bpdc, ending on an fpdc, hdc into the top of the ch2.

Row 4

ch2, alternate bpdc and fpdc, ending on a bpdc, hdc into the top of the ch2.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have the desired length of scarf. The number of rows featured in the picture in this pattern has 213 rows. A long scarf which is not too wide works well with this project.

ATTACHING THE TWO PIECES

(a)  Ensure the hood is “right side” out – the ridges created along both sides of the hood should be facing outwards. Look at your scarf and ensure you have the same edge   ridges facing upwards, these will be placed up against the hood ridges when sewing         them together.

(b)  Locate the middle gap between rows along one edge of your scarf. Locate the middle point at the back of the hood. Pin these points together and secure the hood to the scarf in some other places too. Ensure you have the same length of scarf on either side of the hood. If you find one side is shorter than the other but you have the same number of rows, you may wish to block the shorter side.

(c)  Cut a workable length of yarn from the yarn you’ve been using for this project and thread it onto your tapestry needle. Sew the two parts of the project together using the stitches on each piece as a guide to aligning the two pieces. Sew back and forth, not going over the top. This method of sewing should create a ridge or “rib” which will blend in with the overall effect of the finished project.

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Copyright for this pattern and images within it belong to Zoe Deterding (a.k.a. 24 Carat Crochet). You have purchased or acquired the right to print and use this pattern for your own personal use. You may not distribute this pattern or sell electronic or paper copies of this pattern without the express permission of Zoe Deterding, You may not translate or distribute this pattern in another language, reproduce it or post it on a website without permission. By downloading this pattern, you are agreeing to these terms. You are permitted to sell completed items you make from this pattern. I cannot offer refunds for any purchased patterns but please feel free to ask any questions about crochet techniques which may be required in the pattern before or after downloading. The same restrictions apply to all photographs and images in this pattern. If you know someone who would like a copy of this pattern, please give them the link to the pattern on Ravelry.com. If you have any other questions about how you are permitted to use this pattern, please contact me via email, my Facebook page or Ravelry. © Zoe Deterding 2017, © 24caratcrochet 2017.